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Walk for Life - El Camino De Santiago
Pilgrim’s Return Parishioner
Helen Bassill has completed her pilgrimage El Camino De Santiago. Her 450-mile
trek across northern Spain was cut short by 50 miles following a foot injury.
Helen took part in the pilgrimage to raise funds for
LIFE.
Helen's Letters
Thursday 30th Jun Hola
Well I have now been home 3 days and to say it feels strange is an
understatement. Thank goodness I don't go back to work until next week.
Arriving at Santiago on Saturday was strange - an anticlimax in a way. We
were immediately approached by a young English man offering accomodation.
This turned out to be very reasonable and near the Cathedral so we were pleased.
The Cathedral was beautiful and we had a look around and visited the crypt
with the remains of St James. We also said a prayer of thanksgiving. Next
stop was to the office to receive our Compostella - the certificate to prove
we had walked. I immediately got mine laminated to protect it.
Now it was 1130 so time to go back to the Cathedral for the Pilgrims Mass.
The Cathedral was packed but besides pilgrims there were many tourists being
given conducted tours and taking numerous photos. It was very distracting
but wonderful to be there. At the end of Mass was the big excitement when
out came the enormous Botofumerio which was operated by 6 trained priests.
It was amazing to watch them pull the ropes in unison which made it swing
higher and higher until it could no longer be seen.It was just as wonderful
when they stopped the ropes and very slowly the Botofumerio came back to
earth. Suddenly one of the priests seemed to jump at it, swing round with
it and then they both came to a halt. Fantastic-and quite theatrical!!
I went back to the Cathedral very early Monday morning on my own and hugged
the statue of St James and put my hand on the marble post with the imprinted
fingerprints of pilgrims throughout the centuries. I felt then that I had
arrived. I went to early Mass which was celebrated by several priests but
was beautiful and simple and very holy after the Pilgim Mass. Then I had
a very intersting Confession with a Spanish priest and felt completely at
peace with myself.
It was wonderful to see all our friends in Santiago and there were hugs all
round. We had farewell pilgrim meals and sang the pilgrim song many times
much to the amusement of the tourists. ( the tourists look on pilgrims as
a separate race and ask to take our photos!! Oh yes 200 euros!!)
Eventually it was time for goodbye - or Adios Amigos- and we all exchanged
email addreses and phone numbers. Saying farewell to Coby - my Camino sister
- was a wrench. We had shared a journey together and become very close. However
all things come to an end. Soon I was back at Stanstead with a wonderful
welcome from Vicky and was soon in touch with all my friends.
It was a wonderful journey to visit St James and as soon as I get my photos sorted I will share them with you.
Thank you again for all your prayers and supprt.
God Bless Helen XX
Saturday 25th June She made it!!! [Webmaster]
Friday 24th June
Hola. Well almost there.At Monte del Gozo- The Mount of Joy- and can
see Santiago down the hill. Will walk down tomorrow at 0700 and hug St James.
This place is anything but joyful. It is huge and can sleep 3000 people but
there are only a few here at moment. Everything is shut and everyone looks
miserable. We have met up with two Canadians and are sharing a room so will
have a good evening despite the comercialism. Have walked too far to go to
Santiago tonight. Will take two hours to walk to Cathedral and will be worth
the wait. We were told that it is free here for pilgrims you have walked
but were immediately asked for a donation. Where is the Camino spirit?
Has been very hot -40 degrees Wednesday shade temp. Try walking in that with
10kg on your back (20lbs). I have superb muscles now and will have no excuse
not to do all the heavy work at home. We passed Santiago airport on the way
here. Home will soon be beckoning!!
Had a band walking yesterday. Coby and I often sing whilst walking especially
uphill when it is so difficult. Yesterday we were joined in our singing by
three Germans and an Australian guy went up front and conducted and whirled
his walking pole. Today they all turned up at the bar we had stopped at and
started singing again. Maybe I could stay here as entertainment manager.
It is a strange feeling being almost at the end of the walk. Extremely sad
even though it has been much, much harder than I ever imagined. I have felt
every step I have taken but I have loved every moment of it. The people are
fantastic- natives and pilgrims - and there is such a relaxed atmosphere.
We all have time. I heard a saying here. Europeans have watches, Africans
have the TIME. The Camino does too. Makes one think.
Well must close.. Thank you all for your great letters. Much as I love it
here I cant wait to get home and see you all and bore you with the hundreds
of photos I have taken.
Adios Amigos, Lots of love, Helen X
Sunday 19th June Hola.
Managed climbs fine. Both feet working fine. The mountain was beautiful
with fantastic views. The walk up was exhausting as temp here must be nearly
40. But it was worth it. I am now at Sarria and only 111km to go.
The churches here are amazing. Some are very ornate with so many statues.
They seem to be arranged very close together with out any significance. There
are lots of statues of St Anthony and the Little King. I think many of them
are quite ugly - but what do I know? Most churches are closed as there is
only one priest to serve many villages. I find that the holiest churches
are the most simple. A big crucifix and a couple of statues and a vase of
roses. I have lit many candles for our intentions.
It was amazing to see in the Burgos and Leon areas that many storks have
their nests in the Church Towers. Sometimes up to three nests at a time with
Mum and babies watching all the pilgrims. I have taken many photos to show
you all - so many that I have had them put on a disk so that I can re-use
my card.
The countryside is fantastic and there are so many birds here - even sparrows,
remember them? We were awoken one night by a herd of cows outside our window
mooing for half an hour and a Spanish lady shouting at them in full volume.
Where we are now is very rural with many farms. I love it all. The flowers
are also great - Foxgloves, heathers, broom, poppies and many other garden
flowers all growing wild.
Well next letter hopefully will be from Santiago. Get your money ready!
Adios Amigos Helen X
Saturday 11th June 2005 Hi Camino Friends I have been at it 3 weeks now. Is is really incredible. Such stamina!!
Am at Astorga all ready for two big climbs of 4500ft.Weather still hot but
had drop of rain yesterday.Beatiful brown legs and white ankles!! More blisters
- they do keep coming, the little b***ers (sorry am not a holier person for
all this pilgriming - maybe a slightly more tolerant one). Foot holding up.
Probably last 3 more weeks then bed or garden rest for a month! Okay with
you boss? By the way big thank you to Louise for email and Roy and Nicky.
Nice to hear I
am still remembered.
Refuge I am in tonight holds over 200 people. Bit like a cattle market -
and at great cost 6 euro(about 4 pounds). Stayed in Parish centre last night
and have also been to monastery, and another church. Had a great night for
10 euros three days ago. Coby and I shared twin room with balcony and
proper sheets on bed!! Best night was wonderful refuge which took one look
at us and gave us the disabled room with our own toilet. That tells it all!!
Fantastic people run refuges. Have had more healing and massage all free.
In fact I cried because of the kindness I have received with foot. Got two
kisses from kindly man who helped me and cried a bit more!!Seriously I am
so moved by how helpful and peaceful everyone is. I hope I can bring some
of it back.
Problems with Coby. She is diabetic and got out of control. Too much cake
and chocolate and sweets etc. I am now taking care of her. She is also allergic
to the pollen here and is suffering. Nice to be able to give something back.
She still plasters me regularly.
Walking is very varied. Have had some very difficult monotonous straight
stretches with hot sun pounding and flies in nose ears and eyes. Also very
stoney parts. Had to get ambulance for 72 year old lady who fell and had
nasty head injury.
Well I really love it here and may think of walking back. It is a different
world where everyone tries to help each other. Only blot are those early
risers who insist on getting up at5am!!
Thanks to all of you who are emailing regularly especially Mary. Love to hear your news.
Monday 6th June 2005 Hola
to you all. Found internet in tiny village 11 miles from civilisation at
pigrim refuge with swimming pool!! Last couple of days have been horrendous
to walk in. So very hot and no wind and very straight roads that go on and
on and on for miles.
Yesterday after 16.5 miles my legs gave up. The refuge
we booked into only had top bunks - ha, ha! So Coby and I booked into hostal
with bath. Problem then was getting the legs into the bath. Oh the agony
of it!! Much better today, except every time I stopped for a drink which
was frequently they thought I had finished walking for the day. Then had
to get them started again!! Today only 11 miles but it was so monotonous
and hot I began to dream of a day at work!! Must have had a touch of sun-stroke.
Anyway done over 200 miles now and am on the way to Leon. Had one
cheat thro Burgos. Took bus for 5 miles, stayed
in hotel then got a taxi for 7 miles, then started walking again. Burgos
too big and townie to walk in and it gave foot a rest.
Foot update - phoned Justin my podiatrist in London and he told me to increase
the anti-inflammatories and carry on. If it gets to point when I cannoy walk
any more then Come Home. Anyway it is a nice unpleasant ache to remind me
to keep going slowly and it is working. In fact I think you are all praying
hard for me coz it has improved. Thank you.
Thanks for your emails. Thought the bit about the clergy would get you going.
To clarify - one priest in France would not help Coby with accomodation and
told her to go away. She spent the night in the toilet!!. Here in Spain another
looked down his nose at "English" and omitted to tell me about the special
service for Pilgrims - altho he spoke English and had told all other pilgrims.
He was also very rude to another young girl who then spent night crying on
her bunk. However all has been redeemed. Fantastic Priest last night who
did a wonderful service for us and only spoke in English. He said all the
others should know English. What a refreshing man and a mind- blowing service.
Pilgrim day begins at 6am_earlier sometimes. Breakfast, then walking. Coffee
- if we are lucky enough to find bar- otherwise water. More walking, lunch,
more walking, then find refuge, have shower, do washing, have coffee, maybe
sleep a bit or have a chat to others then dinner and bed. Lights out 10pm.
Have written too much but dont know when I will get another chance. Keep
working hard and think of me burning and blistering in sun and walking and
walking and walking.
Lots of love Helen XXX
Thursday 2nd June 2005 [Sent via SMS text] i met a french man who is on his way back from santiago to lourdes then hom. He spent 3 years in st albans with his family and went our church and
children went to local catholic school. Name of hilaire and isabelle
de charge. i have his e-mail address hilairedc@hotmail.fr as many at church may know them
Tuesday 31st May 2005 Hola. Success, mastered AOL at last. Fifteen emails waiting
from you all. Thank you very much - nice to know you are all thinking of
me. Quick update for those with maps. From
Puerta la Reina went to Estelle, Los Arcos, Viana,past Logrono to Naverrette,Afroza,
past Santo Domingo with its wonderful Cathedral,Granon and now in Belorado.
Stayed last night in bell tower of Granon church. Slept on mattresses on
floor and clock struck every hour and half hour!! Was a wonderful church
but not such a wonderful priest. Am having a hard job keeping the flag flying
for the Catholic Church. Have been some bad experiences with the clergy.
As Vicky told you I have met a wonderful assortment of people from every
country - but no other English - one of us is enough!! The people here have
all come with massive problems - abuse, alcoholism, marital disasters, sexual
problems etc. Feel like Margery Proops!!
My main friend and soulmate of the Camino is Jacoba_or Coby as she likes
to be called. She comes from Holland and has already walked 2400km! She is
such a character and looks after my feet and I give her a massage. Talking
of which had a wonderful back massage from phsyio with magic hands. Also
foot massage from warden at another Refuggio. A French pilgrim did a great
job on my blisters so all in all I am being well looked after.
Scenery is fantastic as are flowers and wild life.Have a big climb - 1250km
day after tomorrow. Food is good and cheap around 7euros( 5 pounds) for 3
course meal with wine. Stay in refuge ranges from donation to 5euros.
Have been burnt, blistered and bitten but fighting back. The dreaded foot
is trying hard but starting to be a problem!! Will either need another few
weeks here or lots more prayers. From 22km per day only managed 15 today
and tomorrow will be 12km. Need to do 20 folowing day to get over mountain
and that could be difficult. My minimum each day should be 22km so I am flagging.
AOL wants to shut me down so I will close now. Lots of love to you all
Helen XX
Friday 27th May 2005 Sent via Vicky (Helen's daughter), based on a phone call from Helen, since she's having difficulty sending emails.
It sounds like she is having a great time, she's met lots of people, including
a guy called Dennis from Canada who was due to join the priesthood 5 years
ago but "came out" of the priesthood and then "came out" about his sexuality!
He is now involved in studying the risk of Aids. She has also met a
Dutch lady called Coby who she has been walking with the past day or so.
Coby started the walk from Holland and has done 1700km so far carrying a
15kg backpack!
The weather is still very hot, which means that she's getting up early to
walk before the midday heat kicks in. Nevertheless she managed to burn
her left ear and leg while walking...at least she'll have some colour when
she gets home - on one side of her body at least!! She's also just
started to get blisters on her feet but feels positive that once they go
they won't come back. Her legs are starting to ache as well.
But don't worry too much about these aches and pains as she has already managed
to have a back, neck and shoulder massage from a physio who was visiting
one of the Refugios!
Mum has asked me to let you know that she can and has received text messages
from some of you but for some reason cannot send any replies back at the
moment. Hopefully this will get resolved soon.
Tuesday 24th May 2005
Hola 15.30
- an hour ahead of you. What a fantastic place. Arrived safely yesterday and
first people I met were two English pilgrims! They were going to Burgos so
we shared coffee and a bus ride to Bilbao town then parted company. Had two
hour bus ride to Pamplona - lots more pilgrims going to various places. I
found the Cathedral, got my first pilgrims stamp, found the waymarker signs
and I was off to Cezor Menor.
Met a group of Dutch cyclists ringing their bells and "hey Pelegrino" (pilgrim).
Felt wonderful. Arrived at the most beautiful refuge, which went up more
in my estimation when I was told they would send my things on the next day
- FREE - and I could just keep what was necessary. What a treat for the feet.
Had interesting time in Spanish restaurant in the evening getting gluten
free meal. Why do they think I can only eat salad and fruit? Anyway got my
meat and chips in the end!!
Today has been great. Didn´t need my alarm with the 9 others going
off in unison at 0600!! On the road by 0630 and into shorts by 0730. Fantastic
weather - will be 34C by Thursday. After a steady climb for an hour with
green hills, blue sky and singing birds reached top and a great sight. An
English couple in a camper van selling refreshments to pilgrims!! Very welcome
they were too. Am now at Puenta la Reine having arrived about 1215. Tuna
omelette and creme caramel tonight.
You may be amazed but I am really enjoying the silence of walking alone with
only the birds for company. I love the silence - expect you are enjoying
it too without me!! Mainly German, Dutch and French here "no poco muchos
inglaise".
8 km yesterday, 18 today and about 22 tomorrow. No more offers of luggage
going ahead so I expect it will be a little harder. Hoping to reach Estelle
by early pm.
Adios for now, Helen
 20 May 2005 AOL
seems to be responding now so fingers crossed. This is last mailing before
I a set off so thought I would give you an update.
The whole pilgrimage is now looking so different from a month ago. Then I
knew how far I would walk each day and where I would spend each night. Now
I have no idea where I will travel each day but I know now that I will arrive
each night at the place I should be!! It is going to be a fantastic journey
of Blind Faith and if I can't make it on foot perhaps my mum will send down
the wheelchair and give me a push.
Mentally and spiritually I am much more prepared for the next 5 weeks and
am really looking forward to 5 weeks of sea and sun (ha ha). I don't feel
I need to do the pilgrimage for me any more - to reflect on the past and
contemplate the future. I have a great life and a wonderful family - which
includes scottish
cousins - great friends and very supportive work mates... not to mention
a fantastic boss!! What a creep!! He is on my camino address book. Hello
John!
I will now be walking for all my friends who have asked me to remember their
sick relatives, struggling relationships with various family members, and
all of you and your needs. I have been taught how to get plastered on my
own so I should have a merry old journey.
I leave Stanstead at 0715 Monday and will have a huge breakfast at the airport.
It will yogurt and bananas after that. I will arrive at Bilbao and take a
bus to Pamplona. Then I will get my Pilgrims Passport signed and hunt fot
the yellow way-marker signs. Then a gentle 5km to Cizar Menor and the first
refuggio. After that who knows where the feet will take me!!
So adios amigos. Keep praying. Will miss you. Lots of love Helen X
From our April Newsletters
Parishioner Helen Bassill had to postpone her 500-mile pilgrim route
across northern Spain following a foot injury.
She
was supposed to start the walk at the end of April. Undeterred by the setback,
Helen, will now be setting off on May 23rd instead and will start the walk
in Pamplona. She aims to walk 450 miles just 50 short of the initial target
of 500 miles. Helen, who for over 15 years was the Herts/Beds Education Officer
for LIFE, is hoping her walk will raise money for the charity’s education
work in local areas. There’s still time to sponsor her! If you would like
to do so telephone 852250 or 07860 830340.
From our February Newsletters
A 500-Mile Walk for Life - El Camino De Santiago
Parishioner Helen Bassill will be walking the 500-mile pilgrim route across
northern Spain starting on 25 April by climbing the French Pyrenees at St
Jean Pied de Port and finishing five weeks later at Santiago de Compostella.
Helen, who for over 15 years was the Herts/Beds Education Officer for LIFE,
is hoping her walk will raise money for the charity’s education work in local
areas. If you would like to sponsor Helen, she can be contacted on
852250 or 07860 830340.
The Route
The Pilgrimage
"El Camino de Santiago" (Saint
James Way) is the name given to the road the pilgrims followed in the middle
age to get to Santiago. Many institutions (hospitals, hotels) were founded
to help the pilgrims in their way to the holy city.The oldest description
of the journey is from the 12th century: the 'Codex Calixtinus' and the 'Kitab
Ruyyar' (by the Arab author Idrisi). |
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The Prayer of St James
May the love of St James surround you
May the strength of St James uphold you
May the way of St James transform you
When you walk, may you walk in hope
When you rest may you rest in faith
When you smile may you smile in love
And when you return may you be renewed
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The route takes in many small villages and towns, making it easy to find
places to rest. Many thousands of people walk the way every year, whether
from the Pyrenees, from different parts of France or from even further afield:
it is not uncommon, even nowadays, to meet Swiss, German or Dutch pilgrims,
for example, who have set out from home to make the entire journey on foot.
Most parts of the walker's route are also accessible to those riding mountain
bikes. The Cathedral authorities in Santiago maintain a register of pilgrims
and in 1991 recorded a total of 7274 travelling on foot, bicycle or horseback
(compared with 5760 in 1989, the year of the Pope's August visit there, and
4918 in 1990). The walk takes about a month and there are a number of refuges
set up to accommodate the genuine pilgrim not the tourist. Some of these
are in old monasteries, inns and seminaries others are provided by the villages
along the way. Some are in grand establishments like the old Augustine Abbey
of Roncesvalles in the Pyrenees or the 12th century seminary at Puerto Reina.
If you do complete the walk all the way and can provide proof, you are entitled
to three free meals for three days! at the magnificent Hotel de los Reyes
at Santiago, apply to the cathedral authorities.
© Ss Alban & Stephen Catholic
Church, 2005
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